Steve, you've known me for how long now? I'm a little disappointed by your question... IF there was a cheaper easier way to do this with separate controls OR a way that was all-in-one for 4x the cost, by now you should know I'm going to pick the 4x the cost version.
This entire thread is 22 pages of the most ridiculous way to do anything LOL.
About the controller.
It's from Digital Aquatics and is their entry level model called the Reef Keeper Lite (RKL). They also have a Reef Keeper Elite that does MORE (not needed for turtle) AND a newer version on an open source platform. Neptune Systems is a competitive brand that makes the Apex line of controllers. They are supposedly better than the Digital Aquatics brand but cost more. The Digital Aquatics stuff can be a little quirky but once it's setup correctly it seems to run and run forever. I've been happy with Digital Aquatics to date.
Here's how the system works. There's a single controller brain to which you can hook up various modules via a daisy chain telephone style bus cable. In my system I have 1 controller brain, 2 x PC4 (4 port power strips), 1 x SL1 (sensor module), and 1x Net module (network interface) connected in that order. The controller brain MUST be plugged into a PC4 to get power via the bus. Beyond that the order of the modules in the chain doesn't matter. The limit of the RKL is 4 modules. The Elite version supports up to 63 modules
. I guess maybe if you run a zoo or a public aquarium ???
Controller -- PC4 -- PC4 -- SL1 -- NET is my controller chain.PC4
Port1 - Eheim 1262 Return Pump
Port2 - Finnex Heater
Port3 - MegaRay MVB
Port4 - ATO Solenoid ValvePC4
Port1 - Eheim 1046 Drain Pump
Port2 - Finnex Planted+ Fuge Light
Port3 - Ubiquiti AirGateway (wireless bridge for NET module)
Port4 - emptySL1
Digital Aquatics Float SwitchNet
Connects to home network
Yes everything is on one controller:
- The temperature sensor in the overflow will tell the controller when to turn on/off the outlet with the heater in the sump.
- The Lights are on independent timer schedules.
- The float switch tells the controller when to power on/off the solenoid valve for top off.
- The return pump is always on 24/7
- The PH Probe is informative and not part of any automation at this time. I already had this probe so I figured why not just plop it in the system.
- The small eheim pump connected to the drain is on a schedule. Every night it runs for 20 minutes which equates to ~2 gallons of water removed from the system. When the water is removed the float switch drops and the controller is told to add new clean top off water. Hence auto water changes. The total system volume is 75Gal in the main tank and roughly 30 gallons in the sump or 105G system volume. I do 14 gallons of water change weekly so what... 13% weekly water change.
No worries about the pics. Yes that explains what's going on. They are all rotated weird in the preview but if you click on one to enlarge it they are correct. Sorry couldn't resist the obligatory family photo since both boys and Moe have been a part of this thread.