jason32835 wrote:I built a quick filter from a Wal-mucil canister and it is working great. I had a small water pump from an old desk fountain, so the whole filter cost me $5.00
I've cleared up the water in my 10g tank in about three hours. I'll apply this same design to a larger tank when I get one, I might just use an inline pump instead of an in tank pump.
It will look much better once I get rid of the Wal-mucile label and add a background to the tank!
Notice the turtle that looks smashed behind the intake filter? Actually he isn't stuck, just enjoying some nice clean water.
DrexelTanker0712 wrote:Nice Job, i'm a big fan of DIY.
For turtle tanks, if you need a canister filter, you might as well (if you have the space) build a wet/dry sump tank out of a 10 gallon tank. Get an overflow siphon or overflow box, a basket with the sponge or other filtrate, lava rock, ~300+ gph pump and some tubing.
the lava rock is for the biological filtration, the high surface area of the rock is ideal for lots of bacteria to live on and convert the nitrates to nitrites, and having a 10+ gallon sump tank adds to the overall volume of the tank water.
ljapa wrote:Can't help you with a trickle tower, but I used a 55 gallon as a sump, and it will keep your tank water at the same level. As long as your return water doesn't come in faster than the outflow, you are good. If it's very slow, the main tank drains until the level is below your outflow. If it's too fast, your main tank overflows.
Silicone some glass in the 35 to segment the sump (look it up online), and the water level in all but your return will be even in the sump.
I have three chambers in my sump. The first, where the tank overflow hits, is biomedia. The second and largest has a sand substrate with plants, shrimp and snails. The final is the return. Evaporation just means the return level gets lower.
It certainly makes adding water easier and less stressful.
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