Urgent Care :: Vet says she's fine, but....

This is not a substitute for qualified and relevant veterinarian care.
Read this before you post a new topic here.

Post Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:54 pm   Vet says she's fine, but....

I've had my slider for many years, she's about 5 inches long, has proper habitat, lighting, and heat (according to care sheets, posts, etc.) and she has a great appetite, clear eyes, active and alert. BUT she's never had a "good" shell and she'd recently been more sluggish. I started salt-water dips, povidone-iodine dips, and while that helped her shell coloring, I still had many questions about my slider's health so I took her to the vet and after throwing her around and poking her, the vet said she was fine and "good to go."

But here are my concerns:

1.) Speedie's always had an ugly shell - meaning white/beige scutes, she doesn't shed properly, loves to bask (the water is super clean), temps are proper, and more recently, the shell has been flakey, has pitting, and the scutes on her yellow carapace seem to flake off thick (like hard pieces). I read a lot about fungal infections, bacterial infections, and mineral deposits, but still couldn't tell what my baby had (hoping it was just mineral deposits). The vet took his fingernail to her and (to her agitation) scraped at her for 5 minutes, flaking pieces of her shell all over, revealing a darker shell color underneath. But she's still dry and flakey, even with "new" scute showing. He said, "She just has unique shell coloring," which I accepted... until in that same breath he said, "... unless her infection is so deep that you can't do anything about it."

2.) The vet said her shell oddity is not shell rot or fungus, but I also notice that at the edges of the large side scutes (the ones that touch the smaller, edge scutes of the plastron) bend inward if i push it with my nail - not exactly soft shell, but it's not rock-hard like the other parts of her shell when i push with my nail. Still hard to the touch with fingers, but not to nails. And I can't tell if she has shell rot underneath because of all the flaking. I read that the scute turns slightly metallic when it's ready to shed - when she's in the water and swimming and i get up close, all of her is slightly metallic... and i'm still waiting for her to shed.

3.) Recently, after I've flipped her over to inspect her underbelly and flip her right side up again, I noticed BLOOD in her skin. Like she broke a blood vessel or something. Not a lot of blood, but blood nonetheless. It fades after a couple of days, like a bruise fades. She also gets these tiny spots of red blood (literally one tiny spot!) on the part of her shell at her armpit (on one of those tiny scutes). In the past, she's been fine being flipped over and just lays quietly as I inspect her, but lately, she fidgets so much like she's in pain, and sometimes even pees (I think out of fear or pain). So I've stopped turning her over. But last night as I inspected her (right side up), I noticed she is pinkish/reddish all along the areas where her skin is attached her the inside of her shell. I feared it was septicemia. When I pointed all of this out to the vet, he said, "that's just the translucency of her skin." And I didn't know what to say so I didn't say anything.

4.) She loves to bask a lot. Which makes me think she doesn't like to be in the water, for which there must be a reason, so I don't force her into the water or take away her basking spot. I put in water conditioner (repti-safe) to keep the ammonia levels low, etc., because I've drank some of our tap water before and it's VERY mineralized and gross. Becuase she's out of the water so much, I feel like (and maybe I'm a paranoid mommy) that her eyes are sunken in and she's dehydrated. Her eyes are clear, no runny nose, clear mouth, etc. She even sleeps in her basking spot, she doesn't sleep in the water.

5.) She has UVA/UVB lamp with heat lamp. Everything is set up acceptably. She seems happy. I sometimes let her out to run around the living room. About a year ago, she'd explore every corner and nook and cranny and make rounds around the apartment. Even try to climb the fridge. Now she goes to her "sleeping spot" near my bookcase and stays there to nap. Is she tired? Is she bored? Has she memorized the floorplan of my apartment so she's not curious anymore?

6.) She has a great appetite. Will eat ANYTHING. I give her Nutrafin pellets, spinach (but not since the e.coli breakout), collard greens, leaf lettuce, and just yesterday - some persimmon (very rare occasion). She LOVES food. So no problem there. Although now that she's older (and was too fat a few years ago, so I now limit her food), her skin hangs out of her body if I tilt her forward or backward.

So my question to you all, dear forum helpers, is AM I WORRIED FOR NOTHING? Is Speedie just different?? Does she just like to hang out and nap instead of swim crazily like all the other turtles do?? Should I try to find another turtle vet? There aren't very many around here in SoCal, I found this one in Arcadia.

I will try to post some pictures of her "unique" shell coloring and flakiness tonight. And I'll try that vinegar q-tip thing on her shell and see if it's mineral deposits.

Sorry for the long post, but thanks for taking the time to read and comment!
myteemingee
 
Posts: 3
Joined: Oct 11, 2006

Post Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 6:15 pm   

Hello and welcome. It would help alot if you could post a picture of the turtle with a dry shell. Also answer the questions here so that it will be easier to help you without having to bombard you with hundreds of questions:
http://redearslider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2142
My babies: Tanner (RES), MR. Prissy & Ringo (budgies), Shinju (cockatiel)

"Little dudes are just eggs, we leave 'em on the beach to hatch, and then — koo-koo ka-choo! — they find their way back to the Big Ol' Blue"
User avatar
CountryGirl68
Senior Member
 
Posts: 890
Joined: Jul 17, 2006
Location: NYC

Post Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 6:21 pm   

I would get a second opinion. The infection being too deep to treat is one thing, but not being able to determine if it's an infection or not sounds fishy. Dosn't sound like he knows what he's doing. Find someone else.
Helmholtz & Kachhua.
User avatar
GPRenegade
 
Posts: 62
Joined: Oct 10, 2006

Post Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:21 pm   

Welcome to the forum. This vet was a herp vet? You don't sound thrilled by the vet visit. From what you wrote (about the bleeding) if I were you, I'd have your turtle seen by someone else. (Look at the link for finding one near the top of the Urgent Care Forum.

Shedding issues are often related to diet. Do not feed spinach (even when it's considered to be safe)---too much spinach prevents the absorption of calcium. Collard greens are OK on occasion. Try dandelion greens (good calcium/phosphorus ratio). Add more calcium to the diet (get some cuttlebone).

I wouldn't dip your turtle in povine-iodine. You can treat affected areas that have shell rot, for example, (doesn't sound like that's what your turtle has from what you say) with it, but not the whole body. Too much iodine is toxic to turtles, and you don't know how much is being absorbed through the skin. Aquarium salt (not regular table salt) is OK for some shell issues.

What's the temp of the water (and basking area)?

She has both a UVB light and a heat light? When was the last time the UVB light was replaced (should be every 6-8 months for regular UVB lights). How close is the UVB light to the turtle when she's basking?
"You become responsible, forever, for what you have tamed." -Antoine de Saint Exupery-
marisa
Retired Mod
 
Posts: 12993
Joined: Apr 21, 2005
Location: CT, USA

Post Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 12:52 pm   

Hi all,
Thanks for the input. I couldn't get any good photos of Speedie with my digital camera. It doesn't have a macro feature, and i kept getting too close to her and the pictures came out all blurry. I'll try again tonight and post my answers to those questions.

The temp of the water is 76-78. I'll be putting her heater back in soon since it's starting to get chilly. I'm not sure of the temp of the basking area, but she does have the UVB/UVA bulb AND the basking spot/heat lamp. The lights are about 8 inches above the top of her shell. And I just got a new UVB bulb last month because the previous one busted (I moved it when it was still hot and I think I broke a filament).

Yeah, I only did the iodine solution twice, diluted with a lot of water and left her in for only 15 minutes. the salt dip (sulfa dip) I left her in for 2-3 hours and then a nice soft scrubbing afterward and her shell looked nice and dark when it was wet, but I haven't done that in about 2 months and she's back to funky coloring.

I'll have to go to the store to find some dandelion greens. And I threw in some cuttlebone (I also have a cockatiel, so they share a pack! :) ).

When Speedie wakes up in the morning when her lights automatically turn on, she takes a few minutes to fully wake up, then jumps in the water for some morning swimming for a couple of hours. I'm happy that she still does that, cause if she stopped... I think that would be a major symptom or problem.
myteemingee
 
Posts: 3
Joined: Oct 11, 2006

Post Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 10:03 am   

I'm thinking alot of those symptoms could be caused by Vitamin A deficancy, but with no watery eye's it's hard to tell, I would put a centrum vitamin in the water, yes the kind for humans, I use 1 tablet for 30 gallons, the water will get cloudy but that clears over night. Every other week I put the vitamins in the water and let them dissolve. That way when the turt eats or drinks they get a good dose. Also calcium is very big, no more spinach, it binds the calcium absorbtion and the turt can't get any which would be a factor with the softer shell. I would also recomend a chlorhexidene bath, dip a toothbrush into it {get it at a pharmacy- called hibiclens for humans} and softly scrub the turt, rinse very well. Then dry dock over night, that will kill any bacteria or fungus and also allow the turtle to shed those needed scutes. Think how it would feel to be in a very tight wetsuit 24 hours a day, that's how the turt feels when they don't shed those too small scutes. I know the turt is basking but that dries out the outer layer, dry docking over night they sleep, less stress on them, and it gives them 8 hours to totaly dry out under those scutes and shed them.
11 res,2 Cooters,4 Sulcata,2 ybs,1 Ornate wood,2 Common musk,1 melanistic slider,1 striped mud,1 russian,2 japanese pond, 2 3 toe box, 2 Black Woods, 3 Vietnam pond, ,1 western painted,2 reeves,1new guinea snake neck,2 Miss maps, 1 African helmeted
Turtle addict
 
Posts: 145
Joined: Sep 13, 2006
Location: Orlando FL


Return to Urgent Care

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests