Habitat - Indoor :: Algae, diatoms or what?

[OtisDriftwood]

I've been noticing some brown stuff accumulating in my tank for some time, and it seems to be getting worse.

Most of it is in this corner, all over this artificial rock/plant and on the natural rocks around it


Here you can see it on the output, and on the glass there's a big chunk that's hard to see behind the LED strip in the corner. That's a spot doesn't get scrubbed during cleaning because I'd have to remove the light diffuser and move the output.


these dark spots on this fake plant have been here forever, I don't think it's the same stuff...


here it's on the silicone/glass in the bottom corner... the captain disapproves.


I also have a healthy Pothos growing fast and happy in my aquaponic setup


The output on the aquaponic box leaves a reddish splash residoodoo on stuff, but I think that's just from the iron in my tap water.


Here's the setup in it's entirety


I try to do 50-80% water changes weekly, but more often than not it's every other week. I did one a week ago, and I'll probably do another today. I clean my filter media monthly.
I did a water test this morning, Ammonia/Nitrites @ zero, Nitrates 10-20ppm (seriously... the color difference on the API test kit is entirely indistinguishable )
I don't have an airstone, the only oxygenating I achieve is through the output in the corner (which is significantly powerful, as you can see in the picture) and the output of the aquaponics (which is a slow trickle)

From what I've read about 'brown algae' it's typically diatoms, not algae... but its growing where there is plenty of current. I have an FX5 on a 40gallon... this water moves.

Other than scrubbing and water changes... what do I need to do to get rid of this stuff or keep it from spreading? I'm sure it isn't detrimental to the health of my animals, but it's ugly

[Tampa Bay Turtle Fan]

Unfiltered fresh tap water can cause rapid growth of the diatoms and water can be filtered 3 or 4 times prior to placing the water in the tank to reduce a diatom outbreak. My personal preference that I use in my tank is natural spring water that has been filtered. Many many years ago, I personally visually observed in the wild at natural springs, a very unique thing within the animals in general meaning fish, turtles and alligators that I never seen before anywhere else during snorkeling dives. This resulted in me experimenting in utilizing it in my tanks and proved to be productive. But like I said, It is just my preference though it cost me more money to do it this way, I myself do not mind.

Diatoms can have a more enhance breakout with the primary causes of wrong lighting or enhanced lighting and sometimes direct sun like if the aquarium is around a window sort of speak. excess nutrients or new fresh water equipment and or items that have to much silicone. Oddly enough during the items production from the manufacture does not seem like it would increase the diatoms but the fact of the matter is that it can.

The best suggestions at this time that I can give is when perform these water exchanges, you can reduce the amount of available silicates by filtering the new water three to five times through carbon filter packs made say for external hanging filter pumps that you can buy from a walmart or similar store cheap while utilizing a clean bucket prior to putting the water itself into the aquarium. It is rare someone brings up the diatoms in general as most of these types of issue are pretty much well under control. By doing these steps, the contain compounds that are within the carbon packs will result in elimination of the silicates. This is extremely helpful if you want to eliminate a persistent problem with silicate levels. As you keep treating the water you will find that diatom growth will be slowed to normal and expected levels.

Keep in mind, if you have a clean debris free area to place the bucket of water for 48 to 72 hours prior using a hanging type filtration system such as a example of one of the aquaclear systems, not only do you filtrate the water to reduce the diatoms, you also de chlorinate the water naturally without the use of chemicals. In the bucket you can also place a piece of pet store driftwood in it if you need the water sooner in which will result in less time to de chlorinate the water naturally making it " soft water".

These are just some sudgestions to consider. Your overall set up appears to be outstanding. Thank you for posting.

[OtisDriftwood]

I pre-filter my tap water during water changes through a carbon block filter at a half gallon per minute flow rate to remove chlorine/chloramine. My tank is also entirely outside of direct sunlight, the only light I have on the tank is LED strip, basking lights and CFL for my Pothos.

I read about silicates in substrates, although my tank is primarily bare bottom, I do have a random assortment of rocks and broken pot pieces in there... but it seems unlikely those are the culprit as they have been in there for nearly a year.

The other thing that stood out while researching diatoms was that they are common in new tanks. Again, I've had this tank cycled for almost a year.

[Tampa Bay Turtle Fan]

It is sorta strange other than the direct sunlight and all the lighting that you have, I would be willing to wager sort of speak that it is part of the culprit here with 95 % percent accuracy. You have done everything else absolutely correct. With all the lighting, have you checked in different locations of the tank on temperature ratios just for comparison? But with the tank being established a year if indeed in the same location which it sounds like, you would of noticed this issue way before. I am interested on hearing the temperatures around the broken pot pieces as well though I am not sure what material was used in the pots. I am just thinking like clay itself tends to absorb more heat than many materials. A curiosity question is where do you see the predominant growth and spreading of the diatoms mainly in the tank? Basically around what items in the tank. I seen the photos but I can not tell exactly. Once you identify where the most diatoms are coming from, I am curious on the material there and the temperatures surrounding those items in comparison to temperatures where the diatoms are not growing or growing fast.

[steve]

I'd do a complete cleaning. Maybe use a little diluted bleach if you want. I'd also carefully clean and wipe around the silicone as it can start to get under it an loosen/weaken it. It could be made worse if your turtle nips at it.

[OtisDriftwood]

Oh joy! Fortunately, I have a brand new 40gal sitting in a closet that I bought @ petco $1/g just for the glass (I gave myself a deadline of finishing the new plywood build before winter). I may just swap them out and sanitize all of the decorations before putting them back.

[steve]

How big is the tank in picture?

[OtisDriftwood]

40gallon. The new tank is going to be 150-200 depending on my final layout.

The turtle (who's name may be changing soon due to gender discovery) is about 4" and a little over a year old.

[steve]

Oh nice! Just remember once it comes, it comes back a bit faster. I get a little algae in the tank but I don't mind it.

[Tampa Bay Turtle Fan]

I don't mind a little algae either but the brown algae aka diatoms is a true pain in the back side and seems to spread really fast from my past experience with it many years ago. People tend to see it more in salt water aquariums more so than fresh water.

[OtisDriftwood]

I cleaned it out thoroughly on the 16th, removed many of the rocks, removed all of the affected decorations and cleaned them with hydrogen peroxide, and did about an 80% water change. This past weekend my power was out for about 48 hours (yikes!) and my turtle spent that time in the bathtub so as not to foul up the tank. I'm monitoring to see if the gradoo comes back.