Habitat - Indoor :: Need Urgent Help!!

Turtle tank setups and other indoor configurations.

Post Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:51 pm   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

It's a female. It's about 6-7 inches.
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Post Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 12:17 am   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

An XP3 would be more suited to a 55 gallon than a FX5, but turtle keepers do use them.

This Purigen comes pre-bagged: http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-165-Purig ... B0002A5VK2

You will need a small container of Prime, which regenerates the Purigen so you can reuse it.

I'm not sure about this bio media... most any kind will do. Not sure if there's anything special about the matrix.

I'm not sure what pads it comes with, hopefully one of the owners can chime in.
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Post Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 10:52 am   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

Synthogy wrote:Okay so I've put together a list of what to purchase, please let me know if I am missing something or what I can add on. Also if you know something that works better than anything or the best product of each that you know please tell me as well and if it's everything I will need in order to keep my water clean, fog free, smell free, and long lasting.

1. Fluval FX5 Filter

2. Seachem Purigen ( Not exactly sure how much of this stuff I should buy in terms of mL based on how much I'll need to last me about 6 months ) http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-163-Purig ... 048&sr=1-3

3.Seachem Matrix Bio Media ( Not sure exactly how much of this I should buy/will need to use in terms of mL as well ) http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Matrix-Bi ... 001&sr=1-1

4. Purigen 100ml Filter Bags to put the purigen inside ( Not sure how many of those I should buy ) http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Bag-Filte ... 956&sr=1-1

5. Blue FX5 Sponge Pads ( Polising Pads ) http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-FX5-Fine-F ... supplies_1

6. Fluval FX5 Fine Filter Pads ( White Round Pads ) http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Fine-Filte ... supplies_3

7. API Water Testers


This is the bio media that a few people here directed me to for my FX5. http://www.ebay.com/itm/380223250752?ss ... 1497.l2649 I haven't set my filter up yet but was told this would be enough (4 1LT containers) and probably the cheapest I could find it.

I bought two 100 ml purigen. That way you can use one and regenerate the other while one is in use. There is some stuff you need to buy to regenerate the purigen. This is what Veipa Cray recommended to me. http://www.bigalspets.com/Seachem-Prime ... =salesrank Obviously you will need two bags, but I think some here use nylons/stockings/hose.

I was told I didn't need the FX5 fine filter pads (white). I was told to get the blue FX5 pad. Someone else will have to chime in, but I think the reasoning is if you want to fine polish your water it is cheaper to buy something like a pillow filler.

I am certainly no expert, but thought I'd throw in what I've been told along the way.
1 RES: Angelina
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Post Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:17 am   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

Synthogy wrote:Okay so I've put together a list of what to purchase, please let me know if I am missing something or what I can add on. Also if you know something that works better than anything or the best product of each that you know please tell me as well and if it's everything I will need in order to keep my water clean, fog free, smell free, and long lasting.

1. Fluval FX5 Filter

2. Seachem Purigen ( Not exactly sure how much of this stuff I should buy in terms of mL based on how much I'll need to last me about 6 months ) http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-163-Purig ... 048&sr=1-3

3.Seachem Matrix Bio Media ( Not sure exactly how much of this I should buy/will need to use in terms of mL as well ) http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Matrix-Bi ... 001&sr=1-1

4. Purigen 100ml Filter Bags to put the purigen inside ( Not sure how many of those I should buy ) http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Bag-Filte ... 956&sr=1-1

5. Blue FX5 Sponge Pads ( Polising Pads ) http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-FX5-Fine-F ... supplies_1

6. Fluval FX5 Fine Filter Pads ( White Round Pads ) http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Fine-Filte ... supplies_3

7. API Water Testers


  1. Good
  2. Buy two of the 100ml packages from Seachem. The 100mL package comes in a media bag. Each 100mL bag can be cleaned and reused about 12 times. Toss one bag in your filter, when the month is up...swap bags. You can clean "regenerate" the dirty bag while the other one is in use. If you do this, you only need to replace the purigen bags every two years.
  3. The FX5 eats a TON of bio media. Seachem matrix media is good... but expensive. This is a much better deal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-1L-Odyssea-G ... 665wt_1165
  4. Not needed if you buy the 100ml Purigen as it comes in a bag.
  5. Good
  6. Not needed
  7. The freshwater master test kit from API is cheaper than buying the tests individually. You need the freshwater master test kit + one additional test for Phosphates.

A small $3 bottle of prime is needed in the purigen regeration process. The small bottle will last you a year+.
The FX5 only comes with foam sponges.
You'll also need some carbon IF you're just using straight tap water. IF you need carbon, you'll need to put it in a media bag in the FX5.
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Post Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 1:46 pm   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

I really appreciate all your input guys. Thanks so much! I couldn't come up with all this information by just googling.

Just to clarify for myself..

Since I will be using tap water I will need to purchase carbon.
Should I thoroughly clean the tank before installing all the new equipment?
When I set up the filter, I will first put in the carbon and filter flosses, and let the filter run for 24-48 hours without the turtles inside, correct?
After 24-48 hours I will remove the carbon and replace it with the purigen or do I need to keep using the carbon and purigen at the same time?

If I decide to purchase the matrix bio, this means I will need to purchase 4 liters worth? ( I don't mind the price right now. Just want to get the best )

This also leads to a concern.. For all this time we've owned the tank I've noticed the water level evaporates quickly so I always need to add in more tap water once a week. Would I have to do anything extra any time I add in a fresh batch of water? For example would I have to take out all of the bio media and put back in the carbon and filter floss? Really confused about this one.
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Post Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 3:36 pm   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

Yes, get carbon. Cleaning the tank is up to you, though a complete water change might be a good idea. You can keep the turtle in the tank while you setup the filter.. just make sure their water temperature is around 75-78F. You can leave the carbon and Purigen in. I would check how much bio media you can fit into the filter... it doesn't need to be replaced, so no need to buy extra. If you leave carbon in the filter, no need to worry about doing anything else when adding water.
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Post Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 6:06 pm   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

I wouldn't bother with the seachem matrix bio unless you want to spend the extra money. It's not any better than any other bio media. It does come in nicer packaging though. Honestly, all bio media performs the same function - to provide surface area for nitrifying bacteria to colonize. There's really no difference amongst the manufacturer's bio media all though their advertising would claim otherwise. The cheapest ceramic bio media is really the best bio media.

The point of the filter floss (the optional setup) is for people setting up a new tank with new sand. Sand storms quickly clog up the more expensive media and make a mess. The filter floss is cheap and disposable for that use.

If you don't have new sand... all you need is some carbon in your filter media along side the purigen. The carbon will remove chloramine from tap water - and thus you don't need to add any dangerous chemical water conditioner.

For top off water... just add cold tap water. As long as there is some carbon in your filter (and you change your carbon each month) you'll be fine.
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Post Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 5:48 pm   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

Alright guys. I have ordered everything I needed according to all your help. :) Can't wait 'til it arrives to set everything up!

Out of curiosity.. Would it be possible to stably keep two 6 inch RES in a 55 or 75 Gallon tank with the setup I am getting according to you guys? By possible I mean, can it be done but will just require a lot of water changes? If how often do you think I'd have to ? I'm asking because our neighbors turtle gets along with ours and our neighbors were thinking of giving it to an animal shelter, but we would be happy to take it if it's possible with our 55 gallon tank or an upgrade to a 75 gallon.

Note: this setup will be done with the fluval fx5
I'm also aware of the 10 gallons per inch of turtle rule.
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Post Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 5:58 pm   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

The rule of thumb as prescribed is 10 gallons of water per inch of shell. 2x6 inch RES x10 gallons = 120 gallons. That allows for swim space + waste dissipation. If the turtles become aggressive towards one another, you may end up needing to separate them.

The FX5 will handle the two turtles and up to a 150 gallon tank. It's a beast of a filter.
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Post Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 9:14 pm   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

I agree you should probably get a new filter, but you can probably fix this problem for the short term pretty easily. Your problem is not so much the algae, but a bloom of anaerobic bacteria. That is what is causing the rotten egg smell. The reason you have an anaerobic bacteria bloom is due to low oxygen content in the water, that is why it goes away when you do a partial water change. The oxygen in the fresh water kills the anaerobic bacteria. To fix:

redirect your filter outflow so that it breaks the surface of the water. Oxygen exchange only happens at the surface of the water and redirecting your outflow so that it roils the surface of the water encourages this exchange. You might also consider adding an air stone and pump to further agitate the surface of the water.

Edit: BTW all canister filters can suffer from this problem, because of their design, they don't encourage oxygen exchange during the filtration process and the beneficial bacteria that colonizes the media actually results in lower oxygen content in the outflowing water. To avoid this, always make sure you set up your outflow so that it agitates the surface of the water. Airstones help as well. Also the algae likes low oxygen content as well, so proper setup to encourage oxygen exchange will inhibit algae growth as well.
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Post Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 4:14 am   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

I included an air pump and a 12 air rock in my order. I read some stuff about the anaerobic bacteria before, but I didn't seem to put much attention to it. I

I just received all my new supplies today and I'm so excited about setting everything up, yet I'm terrified because if the problem somehow continues my aunt is going to kill me for having her spent such a large amount!

I've been reading a lot about algae control which was definitely an issue since my old filter was literally FULLLL of green slimy stuff. So full it barely had water flow..

I've learned that tap water can be a real problem since it's high in phosphates and that is my issue.. I can't afford to buyRO or DI water to fill my tank, do water changes, and to add top water for when it decreases.. Or buy an RO unit.

I've tested the phosphate levels in my tap water and it's pretty high.. What can I do about this when it comes to filling my tank, water changes, and adding top off water? I simply can't afford to occasionally purchase such large amounts of water..
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Post Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 11:09 am   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

Add some gfo in a media bag to the chemical media section of your filter. Or use Boyd's chemipure elite which is premixed carbon and gfo.

Gfo= granular ferric oxide.
Brand name= phosban
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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 4:15 pm   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

Alright guys, so I set up my Fluval FX5 about 3 days ago.

I followed VeipaCray's filter guide by doing the optional set up. I did the optional setup and let the water run in the filter for 2 days, then on the 3rd day I through in 2 bags of phosphate remover that I had purchased. Then I continued to let the water run in the filter using the "Optional" setup for another day, which I think I will let run for one more day. I have tested all the water levels and everything looks great.

I set the outflow of the water to break the surface of the water, and set up an 18" air stone which is working great.

I have done everything correct so far, right?

So tomorrow I will change my filter setup to the normal setup for the Fluval FX5 on VeipaCray's Guide. Once my filter is on the normal setup and the filter is up and running I can go ahead and add my turtle in, right?
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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 4:36 pm   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

Yeah that sounds about right. You can add your turtle as soon as the water temperature comes up to your desired level.

What kind of phosphate remover did you get? If you got the GFO that I mentioned... you can leave that in the filter for the normal setup too. GFO needs to be changed each month like carbon if you continue to use it.
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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 2:43 am   Re: Need Urgent Help!!

I got the Fluval ClearMax filter bags and I currently have it in with the normal setup, but I have not placed my turtle in the tank yet. I ordered Phosban like you suggested, but it's going to take awhile to arrive so I needed something fast and bought the fluval clearmax.

Is it any good/Safe to leave in normal setup? It did reduce the phosphate to 0 after a day.

I've also tested a little experiment...

I placed my air stone near the intake of my fluval fx5 filter. I realized the intake every 20 seconds or so sucks up some of the bubbles coming from the air stone, meaning that will transport air/oxygen inside my filter. Since the fluval fx5 auto shuts off every 24 hours for 2 mins to empty out any air trapped inside it won't effect the outflow. I tested this process for 24 hours just before my filter would shut off again and realized that having the filter intake some air bubbles for 23 hours did not effect the efficiency of the filter at all.

What I get from my experiment:
Beneficial bacteria needs oxygen, and high oxygen levels helps take care of algae, anaerobic bacteria, and other bad things.

Meaning I should continue letting my intake suck up air into the filter since it does not effect it at all and the filter automatically removes trapped air every 24 hours, thus there is and overall higher oxygen level in my tank and filter.

So would this be good to keep up since now I can get oxygen in my filter and my tank without effecting the filters flow at all?
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