Equipment Review and Discussion :: Cycling and other doubts

[Fernando77]

Day 27 I ride my new aquarium (350 liters). It will be my first canister and also wanted to take some questions.

Cycling: I studied the subject and is needed for turtles too. I opt for cycling without fish. I bought an organic accelerator (Stability 50ml) for help. I think I need two more. I think getting it in the following order.

1 - Buy kits for ammonia and nitrites and also the solution of ammonia.

Doubt 1: Kits think of buying those cheapie more of Labcon, they are good?
Doubt 2: The solution of ammonia, bleach can be any at the base of ammonia or is there a more specific solution for aquarium? These products do not contain other chemicals that can be harmful?

2 - Place the ammonia in water, 1 / 2 drop per liter. Check after 15 minutes with the test ammonia, seeking a mark ranging from 2.5 to 5.0.

Doubt 1: This amount of 1 / 2 drop per liter is certain, is that right?
Doubt 2: Ammonia 2.5 to 5.0. I found this variation weird, because one is twice the other, what is the brand most suitable?

3 - Use the accelerator (Stability 50ml). The packaging says 1 capful (5ml) for each 40 liters in the first day. In my case is 350L + or-I think I'll use the whole bottle. Then use 1 capful for every 80L, in this case remember to use 1 / 2 bottle (50ml) daily for 4 days.

4 - To monitor the levels of ammonia and nitrite (NO2). When the two are to do a TPA of 0 50% and the aquarium is ready.

Doubt: For chemical filtration I use Purigen (100ml), but as the Purigen is more comprehensive than the activated carbon do not know if he can retain some element or necessary nutrient cycling. Then put the Purigen before or after cycling the tank? Leveraging on the packaging says 100ml is enough to Purigen 380l, so I'm ok with 100ml or need more?

If you have something wrong with my schedule or if you have any suggestions I'm all ears.

About filtering: I bought 6 liters of mini-Ista (small rings Quartzolit similar to Bioglass) without researching law. Then I discovered that this media alkalinize the water was a little worried but like turtles in general have no problems with it did not give a [----], even though a slightly acidic water (6.8 to 6.4) prevents fungi (probably the most common disease in turtles captivity). But today, reading some forums I found that at alkaline pH, ammonia binds to an H + and form ammonium, which is even more toxic. So I was worried about this Ista. Turtles produce more waste than the fish, and with it a considerably larger amount of ammonia, knowing that I hit a serious doubt:

alkaline water (by the Ista) + a larger amount of ammonia due to the volume of debris from the turtles = high possibility of generation of ammonia.

- Is not it prudent that I replace Ista by another material?

Consider using Bioglass, but here in my town only found in a store. But he saw the store was packed in a burlap bag dirty and dingy ... I'm honestly afraid to buy one of these materials not sure what the origin of it. As my ability to filter has 12 liters, 4 liters but are already committed to mechanical filtration (foam 30 ppi) and chemical (Purigen), I was about 8 liters, which I initially think of using 6 liters of biological cheaper ceramic (Ista) and 2 liters of siporax or SubstrarPro (not yet made ​​up my mind, I am researching and accepting opinions) and in time I replace the cheap ceramic by siporax or SUBSTRATpro. What do you think?

Speaking of SubstratPro, if I'm not mistaken it is made of glass synthesized material equal or similar to Siporax. The difference for what is researched in manufacturing. The Siporax uses a method that creates a good porosity with the difference that there is communication between the porosities. In the SubstratPro the manufacturing process creates an excellent porosity (about twice the Siporax), however the communication between these porosities is minimal making it "clog" and fast depending on the mechanical filtration. That was what I learned about them. If I am wrong please correct me. My question is?

- I read some reports of aquarists Brazilians that can regenerate (unclog) the Siporax boiling it. Making him have an extraordinary durability. This is really true?

- While it is true. The SubstratPro to be made ​​of the same material (or very similar) would not be possible to regenerate it in the same way Siporax?

Partial water changes and siphoning bottom: it is necessary to make partial water changes and siphoning the bottom more often than in an aquarium for fish, I decided to buy a pump and a plastic barrel (or bucket) of about 100 liters for partial water. My doubt is:

- Which pump to buy? .. With that power? ... I would like suggestions of brands and models that have a good life with a price not too expensive.

I've been told that is not good to use to make a bomb through the bottom siphoning because sand and gravel can damage the pump, but since I'm not wearing anything. I will keep the bottom of the aquarium clean.

- I wonder if I can use the pump for siphoning too?

Do you have any cheap way to avoid "sucking" the hose? I ask this because the turtles are natural deposits of salmonella soon be putting his mouth on the hose is not very smart.

[steve]

You don't need an accelerator with RES. With test kits, you take water out of your tank. API water test kits are pretty good and don't bother with any kits that use a dip stick.

You can use a pump to empty your tank and you can use the canister too but don't use it for long distances or going up inclines.

I really can't give you a more informative answer regarding the other questions/concerns. I'll let the filter pros answer those

[VeipaCray]

After your tank is cycled, you're doing partial water changes to keep the nitrates in check. Turtles aren't as sensitive to nitrates as fish, but to avoid algae outbreaks and other problems, it's best to keep them under 20ppm. The closer to 0 the better. Your water changes will allow you to replace water with a high nitrate concentration with 0ppm nitrate free water and thus keep the level low.
Your test kit will let you know how often to do water changes. Usually for myself, I do monthly filter maintenance and opt to do the water changes at that time.

The python system or the Aqueon version both work well for siphoning and water changes. They use your faucet to create a suction and remove water. If you go the pump route... flow rate doesn't matter too much. You're only going to be changing out a few gallons at a time. What does matter is head. How high do you need the pump to push the water? If you're not pushing the water very high, a great workhorse pump for cheap is the Maxijet 1200. If you've been in the fish hobby for any time, you have at least one of these pumps laying around as a utility pump. In my reef system, I use maxijet 1200s for a lot of the automation. Pump water from the sump to drain, another for pumping RO water into a salt mix tub, another in the salt mix tub to mix the water, another in the salt mix tub to pump the saltwater into the sump, one in the RO bucket to pump top-off water into the sump.... great pumps for $20 USD each. They're reliable workhorses. Not the best flow rate, not the quietest, but if it's for a utility pump... they're hard to beat (especially at $20).