Habitat - Indoor :: PH level?

[marisa]

tweet--I've read about the Blackwater Extract as an option to lowering ph. Like I said above, I don't check it that often, and concentrate especially on ammonia and nitrite levels. Just curious--have you ever used the Blackwater extract?

[tweet]

Monitoring the pH is not nearly as important as monitoring the ammonia and nitrite levels in the water. Having slightly acidic water is helpful, not mandatory.

Blackwater Extract is a natural way of lowering the pH. To answer your question, no, I have never personally used it in turtle tanks (opting for the peat moss instead). But it is another alternative if someone would like to lower their pH, just to add to the beneficial selection of choices including pH Down.

Personally, I get nervous about adding extra chemicals than is necessary and opt for natural alternatives when possible, as hokey as that sounds.

[marisa]

Not hokey at all--I'm not a fan of chemicals either and like to go the natural route for things if at all possible, even if it means more work for me. Wondered about the Blackwater Extract, though, every since I read about it.

[pretty.rock.machine]

I have been using reverse osmosis water and gallons of spring or multi-filtered water (I've heard that distilled is bad). I don't know how much longer I will be able to this. Do you need to check the nitrate and ammonia if you use reverse osmosis, etc.?

I think once I move I will probably be using decholorinator. Then I will probably go crazy checking the ammonia and nitrate. I really like the all-naturale. I just don't know how much I can afford it.

Too bad I don't have a fresh-water spring in my backyard!

[marisa]

I can't remember what you said in your other posts about why you're using reverse-osmosis water, but tap water is fine. If it's treated with chlorine/chloramine, use a dechlorinator like Reptisafe (and there are others to choose from as well).

"All natural" or as I said above "the natural route" just means (to me) not using unnecessary chemicals or a few as possible. Most of the time it's less expensive than buying products to add to the tank water. But, you have to take more time keeping the water clean with partial/full water changes.

It's good to test for ammonia and nitrite levels in particular--the reading will tell you how healthy the water is for those two substances (you want 0.00 readings). But a 10-gallon tank, for example, is going to need water changes more frequently than a large tank no matter what.

[tweet]

Pretty.rock.machine - I would recommend checking the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate on a regular basis regardless of what kind of water is used. Very basically, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate (the first two being the most toxic) are toxins created in the water as waste (such as fecal matter and excess food) break down. Even as messy as these guys can be, with a strong biological filter (always go with a bigger filter than what the filter's box says for its tank size!), and regular water changes with a siphon/gravel vacuum, you'll be fine with tap water dechlorinated with a water conditioner.

However, if you are using tap water, I would occasionally check the pH also, especially if you live in an area that has particularly hard water.

[pretty.rock.machine]

What do you use to check those levels (ammonia, nitrate, etc)? Can science class PH papers, litmus papers, used to check PH?

Our water around here is on the hard side. People have said that it has lime in it as well, but I'm not to sure on that fact.

Is it possible to keep empty gallon jugs of decholorinated treated water and then add it too the tank? You could check the levels of the water before you add... Or would it not be good to have that kind of water sitting still? I'm assuming that you add the decholorinater by the gallon (so many drops per gallon) so I just thought it would be an easy way to keep track of how much you have added.

Why do I always have so many questions?!

[marisa]

I used to use Reptisafe, and it was a certain amount per so many gallons of water. I don't think you really need to have water that's been dechlorinated sitting around--the dechlorinator works quickly when it's added to the water. But if that makes you feel more comfortable, that's your decision.

(If you knew for sure your water was treated with chlorine only, you could just let it sit around in open containers and the chlorine would dissipate after 24 hours; chloramine won't, though, that that's why the dechlorinator is necessary.)

[pretty.rock.machine]

Wow, I didn't know cholrine dissapates!

I bet that's something you have to watch for with swimming pool cleaning, huh?