General Care Discussion :: Dry Docking Setup

[jtt777]

Hi,

I have an RES that I am working on some issues around his shell. He's 10 years old and I have a very good setup now (55 gallon tank, above tank basking area, uva and uvb, lots of filtration) but this is a new tank and prior to this he had a basking area that was good but he had a hard time getting to bask and therefore i think didn't bask as much as he should have. I've noticed recently that some of his shutes haven't shed as well as they should and there looks to be some white stuff underneath. His shell doesn't feel soft nor is the material able to scrapped off but i think it is some kind of bacteria or fungus underneath the schute based on what i've read here. BTW, the turtle is acting 100% normal, lots of energy, no issues, basks when he wants to.

I've been sulfa dips for the past couple days and also want to dry dock him. I tried dry docking him in a large bucket but i kept watching him. He doesn't seem to be very happy to be dry docked and why i was watching him, he actually flipped himself over and landed on his back dry docked. I was watching him so i flipped him back over. Many of the reccommendations are for long periods of dry docking and this silver cream stuff to rid an infection.

If I dry dock him, should i be worried he might flip himself up side down? Also, how best to keep him warm if dry docked overnight. THe house is like 65-67 deg F right now and since it is overnight, I won't have a light on....

Appreciate any advice anyone can offer. Thanks.

Jeff

[steve]

Hi Jeff, can you post a pic? Fungus will start from the outer scute and go deeper if untreated. If it's something underneath, then is could be something else, potentially worse. If is it's just a golden appearance, then it could just be shedding. Do you want to dry dock during the day, over night or both?

[jtt777]

I will try to post pictures when i get home. Should I post pictures while he is dry or wet? I know some of it looks like sheeding but I am most concered by the chutes are are on the end of his body, a few of those are the top and bottom of him have a whitish appearance and i can't really see his design undeneath them and I can't scrape off the white either. it is still hard a rock though and he is acting fine.

for dry docking, i was thinking overnight. what is better? Any ideas how best to do it?

[steve]

Pics of it dry would be better. From your updated description, it now sounds like fungus.

Dry docking overnight is easier... large box, clothes or towels for him to burrow under. Keep the room warm and dark.

[jtt777]

Dumb question... what happens if he flips himself over at night

[jtt777]

okay, here are some pictures.

these are him in the sulfa dip so you can see what the shell looks like when wet...




these are closeups of this shell after i let it dry out. i do know that at some point in his life i think i've fed him too much which is why there is pyramding, i've really cut back. what i am concerned about most now is getting his shell looking better i know this will take a while. the white stuff seems like it might be the fungus mentioned in some other posts. some of these chutes are ready to flake off, some just look almost whitish but i can't scrape that white off, it seems like it is in the shute. all of his shell seems very hard and there are no odors. suggestions appreciated.









in terms of setup, he now has a 55 gallon tank with an above tank basking spot that he uses now regularly. I have a 60+ gallon canister filter that i clean often, his water quality is good and i have uva and uvb light over his basking spot. water temp is 76 deg F. i've put a powehead in the tank for extra filteration. there are no rocks in the tank.

[marisa]

He looks like he needs to shed more than anything. The white and dullness/white in the scutes on the marginals are just the scutes lifting.

If you were to dry dock him (I'd be trying to get him to bask more instead), and he should flip himself over, he should be able to right himself.

[jtt777]

thanks for the advice. any ideas how to make him bask for longer? i think he has a better basking setup than before, so that will make him bask. he definately does not spending hourse basking as far as i can tell. i assume its like a few 20 minute basks during the day. i assume dry docking will also help him shed...

[steve]

A good shed would do wonders. My RES was a skittish basker and had retained scutes. Since debris and water would get trapped in there, it allowed some bacteria to grow under the retained scute and eat away on the scute and seams below. A good cleaning and dry docking ended that, though left some scarred pits on the shell. She had thick retained layers and that made inspection underneath virtually impossible.

My suggestion would be to do a regular inspections of the shell, do cleanings on the shell with diluted betadine or chlorhexidine (get a new toothbrush to work with) and dry dock overnight. Meanwhile setup the tank nicely and offer a lot of privacy so there can be lots of basking.

[marisa]

What is the basking area temp? How many hours are the lights on for?

[jtt777]

The basking area air temperature appears to be in the mid to low 80's. the ground is very warm, im worried if i put a brighter bulb that the ground will get too hot and then he wont like that. there really isn't a way for my to put a heat pad in there if we need it hotter.

also regarding the betadine. i got a soluton that appears to be 10%. is that what you mean by diluted or do you need to dilute that futher?

in terms of applying it, do i just let it dribble over this shell and scrub in with a toothbrush and then dry dock him? or is there a need to rinse him?

i've also seen the vitashell cream in places, is it a good idea to put that on before dry docking him or will that have the wrong effect for shedding scutes?

[marisa]

No to the vitashell---it's oil based and won't allow the shell to breathe.

Rather than treating the shell with betadine, I'd use chlorohexidine (know as Hibiclens at pharmacies). Dilute that 50/50 with water and clean the shell with that.

Low 80's isn't warm enough for the basking area. It should be in the range of 88 - 90F (would probably encourage him to bask more).

[jtt777]

i've actually already bought the betadine. same dilution of the 10% mix i purchased? do i rinse after using these solutions or just immediately dry dock?

is there any point in sulfa dipping if you are doing betadine or hibiclens?

in terms of getting the basking area up in temperature,,. i am measuring it in an area that isn't hit by direct light, so air temp. if it is closer to the light it is hotter obviously. do i measure it where he would sit and in the light?

thanks again for the help.

[marisa]

I'd take the Betadine back and get the Hibiclens, but if you really want to use the Betadine, you could dilute it to the color of weak tea. Do not soak your turtle in it. I'd use a q-tip to apply it to the affected areas.

Stop the sulfa dip if you're going to do something else. (It's debatable if it's really effective even if used by itself.)

To get a more accurate reading of the basking area temp, put a thermometer on a rock or object about the height of your turtle on the place he usually basks. Leave it there for 20 -30 min and check the temp.