General Care Discussion :: SHEDDING

Taking care of your turtle's overall health.

Post Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 3:59 am   SHEDDING

WHAT AGE DOES A TURTLE START SHEDDING? AND DOES BASKING HELP..? IF HE DOESNT HAVE A BASKING LIGHT DOES THAT PREVENT HIM FROM SHEDDING? Off the subject is it really bad if he ALWAYS stays in the water?
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Post Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 7:00 am   

I'm not sure that there's an exact age when shedding starts, but basking does help in the process. Basking lights with UVB are important because they allow the turtle to metabolize calcium, which is very important for the health of your turtle. It's also very improtant that they are able to get out of the water and dry off completely to prevent nasty fungus and bacteria from settling in.
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octpusgirl8
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Post Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 2:11 am   

yes, it is bad if he ALWAYS stats in the water.

if he is not basking, it is likely because of a lack of basking light, more specifically heat.

the basking area needs to be about 10degrees F higher than the water. this is what motivates the turtle to bask.

water that is too cool will also slow down the shedding process.
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RunninWideOpen
 
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Post Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 9:16 am   

MooMOOOOOO --- You seem to have missed some of the basics of turtle husbandry. Get back to the basics. Clean water with good filtration with 76-degree water and a basking area at 90 degrees with uvb lighting. If you don't your turtles health will be jeopardized. They need this to metabolize their food to shed and grow.
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Post Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 9:29 am   

Bascomb is right: shedding happens regardless of light, regardless of water temperature.

You need to read the basic care information on the website www.redearslider.com. It's not hard to take care of a turtle once you get everything set up. But you have to give them what they need in order to prevent illnesses. It's a lot cheaper to "prevent" illness rather than have to go to a vet all the time to get meds to FIX the problem. Once they are sick, it takes them FOREVER to get well again. And a vet visit for a turtle with pneumonia can cost up to $300.

Compared to a basic water heater ($20), UVB bulb ($30), UVA bulb ($5), a water filter ($30), basking dock ($30), and clean water (free), you can see that PREVENTION ($115 total + tax) is much cheaper than having to go to the vet to fix sickness problems.

So read the basic care & if you have questions on how to set things up for your turtle, let us know & we'll be happy to help! :)
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industrial_girl_2000
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Post Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 11:18 am   

hey industrial girl. a familiar face!

question. if shedding occurs regardless of water temperature, why does everyone suggest raising the water temperature to help induce shedding?
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RunninWideOpen
 
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Post Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 1:07 pm   

Well, they will shed no matter what you do. Some people talk about wanting to "stop" the shedding, but RES's are notorious for shedding skin no matter what. If the water temp is too high, they will shed a TON of skin & it can clog the filter. If the water temp is "just right", they will still shed skin but not enough to clog the filter. Either way, they still shed skin.

In terms of shedding shell scutes, water temp doesn't directly influence that. Genetics, diet, etc. are much bigger factors in shedding shell scutes.
Kristin's Pond! Starring:

RES = "Sheba", 21+ yrs. old
African Clawed Frog = "Prog", 10 yrs old
& "Kristin" as Momma
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industrial_girl_2000
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Post Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 4:35 pm   Thank you much

Wow you guys sound like experts! LoL :) Thanks for the advice. the cash flow is kinda slow lately. But i'll be able to get his things soon. I know how much those vet bills can run up. I have two dogs. Squirttle is a whole new thing too me. I didnt know it took a bit to keep him healthy. But Im grateful for all the information. Think i'll head out for the basking light first... it freaks me out knowing he might get really sick. "Animal lover". Funny thing is i got him from a lady selling a bunch of them around my work place... which i think is illegal right? I wanted one for my nephew and also felt bad... but ended up liking him to much so now hes mine!
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Post Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 5:51 pm   

Moo -- Don't forget the uvb lighting also. b.
Bascomb
 
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Post Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 10:20 am   

Hey MooMoo.....probably the most expensive part of turtle-keeping is the UVB bulb....I have seen some of those go for $30-$60 per bulb, but the good news is that you only have to replace it about once every 8-12 months. UVB bulbs are kinda a pain in the butt, but they are critical to your turtle's health because it helps your turtle absorb calcium.

Underwater Heaters are the cheapest item & for a smaller tank usually go for less than $20. Keeping good water temp is the most inexpensive thing you can do for your turtle & the heater lasts for several years at a time so you don't have to replace it that often.

The thing with reptiles is that the "UPFRONT" cost is high, but once you get it all going, reptiles are cheap to *maintain*. Much cheaper than having a dog or cat in terms of a life-time investment.
Kristin's Pond! Starring:

RES = "Sheba", 21+ yrs. old
African Clawed Frog = "Prog", 10 yrs old
& "Kristin" as Momma
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industrial_girl_2000
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Post Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 5:49 am   

Thanks for the heads up on the UVB. Does that mean i should have 2 spot lamps for the basking and UVB?? UVA and UVB are two totally different things right? And about calcium... do the pellets contain a good amount of calcium? I had also purchased those " Turtle Bones" but he's not taking at all... i think its because it doesnt have any smell or something. all i have to feed him with is his tetra-fauna combo kit which has pellets/freeze dried baby shrimp and krill. i try to do the shrimp and krill no more than 2x a week. is that ok? i know they're like candy to them rite? i want to find some other ways to get him to eat more vitamins and calcium... u guys have any suggestions??
MooMoo
 
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Post Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 6:38 am   

you can get specially made reptile calcium powder. I roll his "treat food" (worms, crickets in it before I give it to him. Yes, most of it comes off as soon as he drags in down into the water, but I figure he must get some of it into his mouth. keep trying w/ the cuttle bone. it took a little while for Sylar to take to it, but now he likes it.
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imderanged
 
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Post Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 7:51 am   

Yes, UVA & UVB are 2 totally different things. Having said that, UVA is just heat which can come from any ordinary household lightbulb. UVB is the specialized bulb and it MUST say "UVB" on the package or else it isn't UVB! Don't let those pet store people tell you that a "reptile" bulb is UVB. They usually don't know. Many people here like the "Reptisun 5.0" which you can order thru Dr. Foster's reptile pet store online. Here is another example of a UVB bulb which would do the trick:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/p ... atid=11306

Krill/shrimp: no more than once a week. :)

Make sure you read the feeding section of www.redearslider.com. Try all the foods on the list with him! The dark leafy greens also have calcium & are great for the shell:
http://www.redearslider.com/plants.html

I know it is a lot of info to absorb, but just read a little bit each day. Ask questions when you run across stuff you don't understand & we will try to clear it up. :) Best of all: ENJOY your new friend! Turtles make great pets once you understand how to care for them properly.
Kristin's Pond! Starring:

RES = "Sheba", 21+ yrs. old
African Clawed Frog = "Prog", 10 yrs old
& "Kristin" as Momma
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industrial_girl_2000
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Post Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 11:57 am   

just a note, I had the compact florecent 5.0 and Sylars eyes swelled shut. I would go with the tubes if possible.
1.0.0 RES
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0.1.0 Eastern Box Turtle
1.0.0 Bearded Dragon
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imderanged
 
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Post Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 12:12 pm   

I have the compact ReptiGlo 5.0 UVB bulbs and have had no eye or skin irritation. It'll depend on the turtle, but the compact bulbs are easier to direct at the basking area, whereas the tube ones, much of the UVB is wasted on the water.
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