General Care Discussion :: little confused-filter sizes-water quality & added fish

Taking care of your turtle's overall health.

Post Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2006 12:50 pm   little confused-filter sizes-water quality & added fish

ok, this may get long, but I am confused by some info I am finding here...please be patient with me... :shock:


I know on the habitat page it says that ammonia, nitrites and nitrites are just as important with turtles as fish, which makes sense..but I am seeing a lot of posts where people are judging their water quality by looks. Well, you can't judge water quality by looks. Those elements are invisible to the eye.

What are the danger number / healthy numbers for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates in the water for turtles?

Also, there is a misconception that snails & plecos eat poo...they don't...they are plant, meat and algae eaters and need water room just like turtles do and have special diet requirements, just like turtles do. So if you have a 2" turtle in the recommended 20 gallons and want to add a pleco, you need to upgrade by at least 10 gallons and know what kind of pleco you are getting since common plecos can grow to over 12" in size and need a pond. A snail needs 2.5 gallons or more for each snail.

They will greatly impact and add ammonia to the water until it cycles. So people may think they are doing a good thing for their tank, but in reality, it just throws the water into another cycle and may overload the tank with bad stuff they cannot see if their tank & filtration is not big enough to handle the load.


Also, the lingo for turtle filtration is different than for fish, but I think the lingo is confusing because not all filtration is marked the same.

Example: The lingo for fish is a certain GPH *gallons per hour*. Normally it is about 5, can be as low as 2, but for goldfish it is 10. Which means a 10 gallon tank, good for one goldfish, would need a filter with 100GPH. SO if you go to buy a filter, it does not matter what the tank size is on the box, only the factual number of the GPH on the box matters.

But I have noticed that in the filtration sticky it says 2 times the tank size.

Example: A 10 gallon tank would need a filter rated for a 20 gallon aquarium. Well, that is not a set number. One brand's 20 gallon filter may pump 100 GPH and the next brand may only pump 50GPH.

The higher up you go, the bigger the difference can be. The Fluval FX5 only pumps 607GPH but it says it is good up to a 400 gallon tank...that is only about 1.5 filtration. Another wet dry will handle 1200GPH and is said to be recommended for a 30 gallon tank...well, that is 4x filtration.

In other words, to say one should go by the tank size recommendation is misleading since they all vary. Plus, not all filtration works the same and added hose, filter media, etc diminishes the strength of the input and output.

I also noticed where someone said that turtles are very dirty, dirtier than fish. Which if this is true, I cannot see how anything less than what is recommended for goldfish, the dirtiest, would work. So the clearer guideline would be one with a GPH number per inch of turtle....whatever that number may be.

Example: If each inch of turtle needs 10 gallons of water and goldfish are the dirtiest fish around, it would seem that each inch of turtle would need at least 10 GPH per inch....make sense? So a two" turtle should have 20 gallons of water and 200 GPH, 2-2" turtles should have 40 gallons and 400GPH if going by the dirty rule.

Last thing, biomedia...I am not seeing a lot of info on biomedia for turtle tanks. I would assume it is equally important, as well as cycling a tank for the turtles?

I did find this on the habitat page:

"Water filtration and quality are the final major concerns of a well-maintained environment. Since captive RES eat, sleep and produce waste in their limited water, it is critical to have well-cycled and filtered water. Clean water greatly reduces the instances of infection, the growth of algae and fungus. The presence and build-up of harmful bacteria and chemicals should be monitored regularly. "

But I am not seeing very much conversation or posts where people are discussing cycling the tank or water prams. Am I missing something? :roll:


Any help on this would be appreciated.
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Post Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2006 11:06 am   

NO ONE knows the safe water prams for these turtles????
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Post Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2006 12:35 pm   

The best info I can give you is here... Water Quality as you can see there really are no set numbers for turtles like there are for fish. This may be because most turtle keepers do partial water changes frequently which keeps those levels down and also having a well cycled filter.

With fish you don't do complete water changes like you do with turtles. At least I don't with my cichlids. A turtle can go into a tank filled with fresh tap water. Some people don't even use water treatments to get rid of the chlorine/chloramine and their turtles are fine.

I hope this helps some as there doesn't seem to be any standards out there, which is more than likely why no one answered this post before :)
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Post Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2006 4:55 pm   

A water testing kit should indicate what are the ideal ranges for water quality. On my kit, the nitrate levels should be 0-40ppm (mg/L) and nitrite at 0-.05ppm (mg/L). I haven't tested for ammonia but I conduct regular or partial water changes.

I think bio-media is very important in setups where there are only partial water changes and I don't think most people on this forum have filters that support bio-media.
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Post Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2006 6:03 pm   

cam722 wrote:The best info I can give you is here... Water Quality as you can see there really are no set numbers for turtles like there are for fish. This may be because most turtle keepers do partial water changes frequently which keeps those levels down and also having a well cycled filter.

With fish you don't do complete water changes like you do with turtles. At least I don't with my cichlids. A turtle can go into a tank filled with fresh tap water. Some people don't even use water treatments to get rid of the chlorine/chloramine and their turtles are fine.

I hope this helps some as there doesn't seem to be any standards out there, which is more than likely why no one answered this post before :)


Thanks for the help, but now I am more confused. First you said most turtle owners do partial changes and then you said you don't do complete water changes for fish like you DO WITH turtles...which is it?


I have seen very few people talk about cycling their tanks...which led me to some of the confusion. So..should I be doing total changes or partial?
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Post Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2006 6:09 pm   

steve wrote:A water testing kit should indicate what are the ideal ranges for water quality. On my kit, the nitrate levels should be 0-40ppm (mg/L) and nitrite at 0-.05ppm (mg/L). I haven't tested for ammonia but I conduct regular or partial water changes.

I think bio-media is very important in setups where there are only partial water changes and I don't think most people on this forum have filters that support bio-media.


Thanks Steve. I have a AP test kit and it does not give safe zones. I just know a cycled tank will give 00-and nitrates up to apx30 are safe for my bubble eyes and if the other two get over say the 2 area, that can cause a lot of sickness in the long run. I just want to make sure the nitrates in the turtle tank do not get too high and the only way to know this is by knowing what the safe numbers are.

I think a lot of people do have filters that support media, but do not know it. I see very little talk about bio media. I have noticed a lot of people saying aquaclears and fluvals are good...same as in the fish world and both support biomedia. I have noticed more people using charcoal here. Now for fish, it is totally unneeded unless getting meds and such out of the tank. That room can easily hold bio rings and such.

I get the feel water quality is imprtant to turtles...but I am just not seeing too much talk on what good water quality means. Not trying to offend, just trying to make sure I know the prams..

Thanks for the help. :wink:
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Post Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2006 6:58 pm   

Maybe Carol meant that you can do a full water change with turtles as opposed to fish. I have an indoor setup and do regular water changes. I also use water conditioner, bio-media (ceramic rings) and a little freshwater aquarium salt. I've only used the test strips a couple of times and the safe levels seems to be good.

Charcoal (used as activated carbon) is considered to be chemical media, not bio-media. It's only useful for a short period, though if they leave it in the filter then it's possible for it to have the same beneficial bacteria that bio-media is intended for.

I think we have a lot of novices here who are more likely to do regular complete changes than those who have invested in a canister system.
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Post Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2006 8:46 pm   

Well, I'm glad someone finally posted (I was waiting) :).

Giddy, I keep my ammonia level and nitrite levels at 0 ppm and the nitrate level no higher than 40 ppm (obviously lower is better). This is what I think experienced turtle people would tell you (with very minor variations). A high nitrite level will affect the nitrate reading (but you know this?).

I have a good-sized stock tank (110 gallons) with about 80 gallons of water in it. I do do partial water changes weekly no matter what, and how much I change depends on that nitrate reading. I think the average is about 30%, though, and this doesn't include any water that's added due to evaporation. The ammonia and nitrite levels have consistently been at 0 for quite a while, though they are checked regularly as well.

I do use charcoal, but don't like to leave it so that it acts as biomedia (I'd just rather increase the amount of biomedia). I really think that charcoal is more important in smaller tanks than large ones.

I like what you said about snails and plecos. I think that it's easy to look for a "magic bullet" that will help to keep the tank clean, when in truth, nothing will substitute for a good old water change (partial change if you have a big enough set-up and a good filter to support beneficial bacteria). I keep the bio-load light, only a few snails that are growing from the anachris that is occasionally put in the tank (and some multiply).

About the filter rating--I find your gph rating rather than tank size interesting, but have never heard of a "proper size" filter for a tank being calculated that way (possibly is, but I've not seen it). To me, the 2-3X (or more) guide is more to establish the fact that turtles need much greater filtration than fish. And you're right, all filters are not created equal, so it pays to do some checking and get an idea of what others have found to work in terms of specific brands/models. But, if you're talking pond filters, from what I've read gph ratings are something that perhaps need to be looked at really closely.

Just my thoughts--this is a worthy thread! :) I know water testing, etc. has been talked about before--perhaps you didn't go back far enough in earlier posts.
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Post Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 2:59 pm   

steve wrote:Maybe Carol meant that you can do a full water change with turtles as opposed to fish.


Exactly what I meant. :) I know if I put my fish in a tank with 100% fresh water they probably won't last the day, but my turtles on the other hand have no problems with that.
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Post Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 1:35 pm   

steve wrote:Maybe Carol meant that you can do a full water change with turtles as opposed to fish. I have an indoor setup and do regular water changes. I also use water conditioner, bio-media (ceramic rings) and a little freshwater aquarium salt. I've only used the test strips a couple of times and the safe levels seems to be good.

Charcoal (used as activated carbon) is considered to be chemical media, not bio-media. It's only useful for a short period, though if they leave it in the filter then it's possible for it to have the same beneficial bacteria that bio-media is intended for.

I think we have a lot of novices here who are more likely to do regular complete changes than those who have invested in a canister system.


Thanks Steve :lol:

Is aqaurium salt at a certain ratio good for turtles? Salt is one of the things to have on hand for goldfish as well. Yep, same page with the charcoal :wink:
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Post Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 1:43 pm   

Thank you Marisa!

it is good to know that I was on the right track with the turtle care. My bubble eyes grow and flourish, so I would like to see the same thing happen with these babies.

As far as the GPH, I am really unsure why most filters do not have this in big bold letters..maybe because they don't want buyers to be able to compare that info easily?? In aquarium talk, the GPH is common and is what we are told to look for, since that water turn over rate IS what is filtering the tank.

And..again, since turtles are so dirty, I cannot imagine them taking LESS filtration then the goldfish, which are some of the dirtiest creatures out there. lol

And going by the GPH gives one an accurate view of how much filtration they acually have. Even the most expensive filters may have lower GPH then a more economical choice.

I just know that when one gets into a hobby such as this, the info can be confusing and overwhelming. So I like clarification...thanks again:):):)
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Post Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 1:43 pm   

Thanks Carol!
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Post Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 2:55 pm   

Giddy wrote:Is aqaurium salt at a certain ratio good for turtles? Salt is one of the things to have on hand for goldfish as well. Yep, same page with the charcoal :wink:


I haven't come across any specific literature regarding aquarium salts for RES. I use about half of what is recommended for fresh water fish. I think the salt is having a positive effect on water quality (and reducing algae).

The information I've seen regarding GPH isn't emphasized either. They are more likely to tell you what size aquarium it's good for, which would make it easier for most fish keeper to understand.
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Post Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 3:34 pm   

What % ratio of salt are you using? DIfferent ratios are used for different reasons.

The problem is, different fish have different filtration requirements. So the general box size can actually turn out to be harmful in the longrun.
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Post Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:37 pm   

I'm using approximately 1 tablespoon per 10 gallons of water (it's Doc Wellfish's Aquarium Salt brand).
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