Equipment Review and Discussion :: FilStar 3 Media...

[bondturtle]

Hi, Can anybody suggest to me what I should put in my Filstar 3 cabinets.
Please suggest which media and in which order.. and how frequently I should change them, or rinse them. Thank you in advance!

[bondturtle]

I have the following medias available on a website.. I am ready to place my order. I need at least 2-3 months supplies. Please suggest the absolute best combination for my red ear slider. he is almost 4 years old. Once again, I have the Filstar 3 filter with 3 cabinets. Please suggest from bottom to top, which media in which cabinet in which order. I am shopping at: planetrena.com and I have the following medias available:
Filstar Foam 20ppi 2 pk ; Filstar Foam 30ppi 2 pk ; Filstar Bio-Chem Zorb Pouch ; Filstar Nitra Zorb Pouch ; Filstar Phos Zorb Pouch ; Filstar Water Softener Pillow Pouch ; Filstar Super Activited Carbon Pouch ; Filstar Zeolite Ammonia Remover Pouch ; Filstar Bio-Chem Stars 20 Ct. ; Filstar Ceramic Rings ; Filstar Micro Filtration Pads ; Filstar Dual Density Micro Filter (2pk) (new)

[steve]

The foam that came with your filter can last you a long time as long as you are willing to rinse it out every month or so. It comes with 20ppi (bottom basket) & 30ppi (middle basket) and I would get some bio media (Bio-Chem Stars or Ceramic Rings) for the top basket. Bio media should be rinsed with tank water when cleaning, they do not need to be replaced.

The Micro Filtration Pad that comes with the filter tends to clog up quickly for turtles, so you can skip it. Everything else I think you can skip too.

[SpotsMama]

Here's what I'd recommend:

bottom basket - 1 x 30ppi and 2 x 20ppi foams

middle basket - 2 packages of ceramic rings

top basket - one Bio Chem Zorb pouch topped with a micro filtration pad

Rinse the contents of the bottom two baskets monthly in tank water, and replace the contents of the top basket monthly.

On the micro filtration pads - several people have reported that they clog up their filter but I haven't had that problem. They do collect dirt, so I figure they're doing something useful. For me, they've never collected so much that they've slowed the filter down.

I think the bio-chem zorb stuff is great. I keep a bunch of it on hand.

In my middle box I've got a mixture of rings and stars but I don't care for the stars because they float! When I'm cleaning the filter they sometimes get away from me.

[scripta_elegans]

Do you think the bio chem zorb is better than carbon? I have been making my own carbon pouches for the filters, but does that work better for you? I like the microfiltration pad too. I cahnge it every 2 weeks, but I can see a difference in the water's clarity.

[DavidY]

Yea, I'd think you would definitely want either a carbon or some other chemical section in there to remove toxins and heavy metals that come in from the tap water. Those things will accumulate to dangerous levels over time because of the evaporation process (using tap water to replace evaporated H20, you keep adding more and more substance while only pure water evaporates).

[marisa]

I never used the chem-zorb that came with the filter. I remember it as being more expensive than the carbon, and the carbon did a decent job so I stuck with that.

[SpotsMama]

I've never used anything but the bio chem zorb - so I don't know how it compares to plain carbon. I just like the way the water looks (and smells) so didn't want to mess with it.

The zorb is supposed to have additional stuff in it. Here's what the package says: "Bio-Chem Zorb is composed of two organic scavenger resins and two ion-exchange resins, combined with a high-quality activated carbon. Together they remove synthetic chemicals, naturally occurring organic pollutants and metabolic by-products from aquarium water. Bio-Chem Zorb filters water to a level not achievable with carbon alone."

Advertising hype? I don't know.

[DavidY]

I've heard good things about Bio-Chem in the aquarium fish hobby and it sounds like there is sound scientific evidence to support their claims. If cost is a problem you could always alternate between carbon and Bio-Chem or even just use Bio-Chem when things get really dirty or smelly.

[marisa]

Fish (this is what the XP3 was intended for) may need something like chem-zorb, but personally I don't think turtles do. But, scripta_elegans, what you choose to use is up to you.

[DavidY]

That's true, turtles aren't as picky about the water chemistry. Fish are much more delicate because of their gills. Regular activated carbon should be good enough for odor control.

[steve]

I haven't noticed any water quality changes in the big tank when I used carbon. ... but it worked well with much smaller enclosures.

[marisa]

The use of carbon is more important in smaller tanks (where it will help with odor). For the XP3, you could skip the carbon and just use the sponges and load up on biomedia.

[steve]

I've never had an issue with odor, I was just hoping to stretch the water quality a bit during times when it's difficult to do water changes. So are you only using sponges/biomedia?

[marisa]

For me, only small tanks (like 10 and 20-gallon) have sometimes developed a faint odor, and it's almost always been in warm weather. I really think carbon is useful in a smaller tank. That said, I've always used a carbon pack in the XP3, mostly because I bought so many of them (remember all those free shipping offers at Big Als? I went nuts. ). Some people, though, don't bother with the carbon and load up on biomedia.